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🔧 WSPER Connect Hub Installation & Migration Guide



🧰 Tools You May Need


  • Phillips-head screwdriver
  • Small flathead screwdriver (for terminal blocks)
  • Drill with appropriate bits (if mounting to drywall or junction box)
  • Level (for straight mounting)
  • Labeling tape, wire markers, or color-coded wire (recommended)
  • Cable ties or adhesive clips (for wire management)
  • Voltage tester or multimeter (optional but useful)
  • Ethernet cable (optional – may be needed to connect the hub to your network switch)
  • Low-voltage 2-conductor wire (optional – may be needed to extend existing sensor wiring to the hub)


Estimated Installation Time:

10–20 minutes per sensor (includes wire tracing, labeling, and reconnection)

30–60 minutes if new Ethernet cabling or power needs to be routed to the hub

Installation

📍 Step 1: Locate Existing Sensors

  1. Identify Legacy Devices
    1. Look for existing panic buttons, door sensors, alarm contacts, freezer contacts, etc. These devices are usually wired into an alarm panel cabinet (typically labeled inside the cover).
  2. Label Each Wire
    1. Before disconnecting any wires, label them with masking tape or wire labels (e.g., "Front Door", "Break Room Panic", etc.)
    2. Take a photo of the original panel wiring for reference.


🔌 Step 2: Disconnect and Prepare

  1. Power down the alarm panel (if necessary) to avoid false alerts.
  2. Gently remove the wires from their terminal screws.
  3. Inspect wires — if needed, strip ¼ inch of insulation to expose clean copper.


🧲 Step 3: Mount the WSPER Connect Hub

  1. Choose a location near your existing panel or where the sensors wire converge.
    1. In some cases, sensor wires must be pulled from the original alarm panel and extended to reach the WSPER Connect Hub.
  2. Insert two mounting screws into drywall, wood, or a junction box, leaving the heads protruding slightly.
    1. Tip: To align the screws accurately, place a piece of tape across the back of the device to mark the keyhole slot positions. Then transfer the tape to the wall as a drilling guide.
    2. Partially screw two mounting screws into drywall, wood, or a junction box — leave the heads sticking out slightly
    3. Align the keyholes on the back of the hub with the screws.
    4. Slide the hub left or right until it locks securely into place.
    5. Or attach with heavy-duty Velcro for non-permanent installs
    6. Secure wires by Zip Ties, Velcro or similar wire ties
  3. Ensure the area is ventilated and protected from water or damage.


🌐 Step 4: Connect Power & Network


  1. Connect Power Based on Your Model:
    1. If your model supports PoE (Power over Ethernet), connect the Ethernet cable to a PoE-enabled switch or injector.
    2. For models without PoE, use the included 12V DC power adapter or connect to a compatible power source.
  2. Connect Ethernet wire to your local network switch
  3. Device will power on — confirm status LEDs light up.


🎯 Step 5: Wire Sensors to Input Terminals


  1. Each WSPER Connect Hub model supports 1, 2, or 4 inputs or more via expansion hubs.
    1. Match the labeled wire (from Step 1) to the corresponding input terminal.
  2. Use the included terminal block diagram to insert wires into:
    1. IN1, IN2, IN3, IN4 (depending on your hub model)
    2. Tighten the screw terminal to secure the wire.
  3. Use the WSPER Input Assignment Sheet to double-check:

Hub Input #

Device Name

Location

IN1

Panic Button

Register 1

IN2

Panic Button

Register 2

IN3

Door Contact Sensor

Front Door

IN4

Door Contact Sensor

Back Door

✳️ We recommend filling this sheet out and taking a photo for your records.


📦 Step 6: Optional — Wire Sirens or Lights

  1. Use the relay outputs to control:
    1. Flashing strobes
    2. Buzzers/sirens
    3. Lights for alert indication
  2. Wire into Rly1, Rly2, etc. based on your needs.

Hub Output #

Function

Device

Rly1

On/Off Lights

Light Board

Rly2

 BOH Strobe

Strobe 1

Rly3

Lobby Strobe

Strobe 2

Rly4

Siren

Siren 1



✅ Final Step: Test & Confirm


  1. Contact Your WSPER support rep to help verify:
    1. Inputs are recognized correctly
    2. Alerts trigger as expected
    3. Labels match what’s programmed in the dashboard
  2. You’ll receive a final confirmation message or email once setup is complete.


🛑 Pro Tips


  • Use different color wires, tags, or labeling tape to clearly identify each sensor or relay connection — this makes installation and future troubleshooting faster.
  • The more organized and detailed your labeling, the smoother the installation process will be.
  • Mount the unit at eye level if it needs to be accessed frequently, or out of reach in secure areas to prevent tampering.
  • Use cable ties or adhesive clips to manage and route wires neatly — good cable management improves safety and makes future servicing easier.
  • Use a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) or battery backup to maintain operation during power outages and ensure critical alerts still get through.


❓ Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: What if my existing alarm panel isn't labeled? How do I know which wires go where?

A: If the panel isn’t labeled, we recommend the following:

  • Trace wires visually back to their source (e.g., door contact, panic button, freezer sensor).
  • Use a continuity tester or multimeter to identify circuits by opening and closing the sensor or button and checking for signal change. Need help? [See the step-by-step guide below on how to test and verify your circuits.]
  • Disconnect one wire at a time and test it at the source to avoid confusion.
  • Take photos before removing wires — this can help you reference the original setup.
  • Contact our support team with a photo of your panel — we can often guide you based on common wiring practices.


Q: What if I'm unsure where to connect wires on the WSPER Connect Hub?

A: Each terminal is clearly labeled for inputs and outputs. Refer to the included wiring guide or contact our team — we’ll walk you through it.


Q: Can I test connections before full installation?

A: Yes! You can power the device temporarily and test input/output functions using a test sensor or button before mounting permanently.


Q: Is there a way to pre-label connections before wiring?

A: Absolutely. Use labeling tape, zip-tie markers, or a wire tagging tool to mark each cable according to the terminal it will be connected to.



🔍 How to Identify Unlabeled Wires with a Continuity Tester or Multimeter

Step 1: Disconnect the wires from the existing panel

  • ​Remove wire pairs from the terminal block to isolate them for accurate testing.

Step 2: Set your tool to continuity mode

  • If using a multimeter, set it to the continuity setting (often marked with a speaker or diode symbol).
  • A continuity tester will light up or beep when it detects a closed circuit.

Step 3: Attach probes to each wire in the pair

  • Touch one probe to each of the two wires.
  • With the button or sensor in its normal (resting) state, the tool should not beep or show continuity (unless it’s a normally closed sensor).

Step 4: Trigger the connected sensor or button

  • While keeping the probes connected, open the door, press the panic button, or activate the sensor.
  • If it's the correct pair, you should hear a beep or see continuity on the screen.

➡️ If nothing happens, move to the next door, window, or panic button and trigger that one — repeat until you hear a beep or see continuity.


🧑‍🔧 Pro Tip: This step is much easier with two people — one at the multimeter and one walking around to activate devices.


Step 5: Label the wire


Once you’ve identified the sensor, use labeling tape or tags to mark both wires (e.g., "Front Door Contact" or "Freezer Alarm").


🧪 What If You Can’t Identify the Sensor?

If you test all available sensors and still get no beep or continuity, then the issue may be:

  • A damaged sensor (internally failed switch)
  • A broken wire (open circuit in the wall or junction box)

Here’s how to test for this:


➕ Sensor & Wiring Test

After labeling all working sensors, choose one remaining unidentified wire pair and:


  1. Disconnect the sensor from the end of the wire (if accessible).
  2. Touch the two wires together at the sensor location to close the circuit manually.
  3. Check the multimeter or tester — it should now beep or show continuity.


If it does:

The wiring is good, and the sensor is likely faulty.

If it doesn’t:

The wiring is likely damaged somewhere between the sensor and the panel. You may need to replace or reroute it.